|
|
The Repair Order |
When you sign the estimate on a repair order you are agreeing to pay the dollar amount entered for the repair described. In most states this is a legal document. After you sign, it doesn't matter legally if it is a 'fair' or a 'competitive' price. You've agreed to pay. |
Don't sign if there is anything you don't understand. |
Don't sign if the price seems unreasonable. |
Don't sign until the work being purchased is clearly described (in writing, on the repair order). |
Full Brake Job . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $494 Not good enough |
Replace front & rear pads with OEM parts: |
$144 |
$240 |
Brakes: |
Reface rotors (4) |
$494 |
Parts |
Labor Hrs |
Total |
$110 |
$254 |
$240 |
Therefore: |
Many repairs start out being a diagnosis rather than a specific labor description. In this case, if it is electrical or emissions related the shop will usually charge one hour, if it is mechanical half an hour. |
Diagnose check engine light always on . . . . . . . . . .$80 |
Check brakes for grinding noise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $40 |
Depending on the nature of repair required, the shop may roll these diagnostic times into the total cost of the repair . . . this is likely for 'check brakes' but less likely for electrical problems and emissions problems. |
When the shop diagnoses the problem they will call you for authorization on any additional parts and labor required. The date, time, and person authorizing (this could be you, or someone you designate) should be noted on the repair order. Careful shops will have you initial this when you pick up your car. |
Shops often refer to the repair order as the 'R.O.' |
If the shop performs a repair you did not authorize (either by phone or in person), and then hits you with an unexpectedly large repair bill, technically you do not have to pay for anything you did not authorize. Unfortunately, as a practical matter, the shop may refuse to return your car if you refuse to pay. Your best bet is to tell the shop you are paying the bill under protest and that you may persue the matter in court. DO NOT pay the bill with a credit card or check and then stop payment . . . in many states this is considered fraud and YOU might be the one being prosecuted. Many shops will work with you on payment for unauthorized repairs. They know the law . . . they know if it goes to court they will probably lose. |
These are both OK. |
Labor $ |
1.8 |
3.0 |
This is what it should look like. You won't see it very often. Also it is subject to change as the repair progresses. Additional parts may be necessary for example. The shop should contact you by phone for your authorization if there is any additional expense. |
OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer ie Ford, Toyota, Chevy, etc. |
BEWARE OF THE 'UPSELL' |
Dealerships in particular are 'trained' to get as much money (this is your money) on the repair order as possible. This is considered 'good business' and is actually part of many manufacturer training programs. Your best defense is to be particularly suspicious when the shop suggests work that has nothing to do with why you brought your car. Ask questions: Why? How often? What will happen if I don't have it repaired? Can you show me? etc. Familiarize yourself with the owners manual that came with your car, particularly the maintenance schedule. If the shop tells you that your car needs brake pads for instance, ask how much wear is left . . . there is usually no reason to replace them if there is more than 15% remaining (unless you are very hard on brakes or drive 30,000 + miles per year). Also make sure that shop maintenance recommendations conform with your owners manual . . . as an example, there is no reason to replace antifreeze in 'preparation' for winter and then again in 'preparation' for summer. Follow the recommendations in your owners manual. |
Fraud usually involves either paying for replacement parts that are not actually replaced, or paying for an overhaul or service of a component that is not actually overhauled or serviced. A pretty good deterrant is to ask for replaced parts to be returned to you in the boxes the new parts came in. If the part is particularly messy (oil and fuel filters for example), let the shop keep the replaced part . . . but get the box. |
OVERPRICING |
FRAUD |
Overpricing is somewhat objective because it is difficult to define exactly where an honest profit crosses the line and becomes price gouging. The temptation for a shop to push the envelope is strong . . . particularly since it is so hard for the layman to verify. Your best defense is to ask alot of questions and to call competitive shops for comparative pricing. For parts prices you can call parts stores in your area (Kragen, Autozone, Pep Boys). If you are mechanically inclined you can subscribe to Alldata. They have a do-it-yourself program targeting people that do their own repairs and maintenance . . . but it includes OEM parts and recommended labor times as well. The program is on line and is the same program many shops use. The do-it-yourself version is make and year specific (you get info on only one make/year vehicle), but it is well worth |
UNAUTHORIZED REPAIRS |
carcareconsultants.com Car maintenance and repair. A guide for owners and repair shops. |